Hard-wired 12-volt power (better): Most vendors offer kits that connect the dash cam directly to a constant 12-volt source in your wiring harness behind the dash.It can lead to an unsightly cable run, and the power disappears when you turn off the car, but it’s universal and easy. Auxiliary 12-volt power (adequate): Most vendors have stuck with powering their dash cams via the auxiliary 12-volt power socket (also known as the cigarette lighter) and USB cables.Keep that in mind as you consider your power options:
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You can sometimes fix this with a longer or shorter cable (or a professional installation). That cable can sometimes be tucked out of the way, but more likely than not you’ll have loose cable hanging somewhere.
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Something most people don’t consider before they buy is that dash cams connect to a power source in your car via a physical cable. One camera we’re aware of, the Owl, opts for hard-wired internal storage. There are often bundles available with the card. Some come with larger cards, and some budget models come without.
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This requires a battery or large super-capacitor (see below in “Power connections”).
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A decently wide field of view: You’ll see cameras with as little as 90 degrees’ field of view, but you’ll catch more of what’s around you if you go for 120 to 140 degrees.Interior cameras are generally situated on the dash cam, but rear cameras are separate and require additional cabling. Dual-channel support: This is what you’ll need if you want to run both front and rear, or interior (cabin-view) cameras.